As 2013 rolls into 2014, I’m doing a lot of reflecting on the past year and planning for the next 365 days! My photos have clogged my iCloud storage, prompting me to delete a bunch and finally upload photos from the past 12 months.
Sunset view over the Columbia River and Pacific Ocean.
This year wasn’t a distinguished travel year for me, and that’s okay. Instead my journeys were marked by personal growth opportunities. But – one place I rediscovered in my home state and visited not just once, but twice.
Where?
Astoria, Oregon.
There’s a variety of water traffic into the port of Astoria.
Located on the northwestern tip of Oregon where the muscular Columbia River surges into the Pacific Ocean, the Astoria of my memory was dreary, drippy (supposedly it’s the rainiest city in the state), and underwhelming, despite its rich history.
We had spectacular river views, including a view of the Astoria-Megler bridge, from our room at the Cannery Pier Hotel.
But as we know – the only constant in life is change and that applies to towns, too. We were lucky enough to discover Astoria’s gems on two different weekends in summer and fall. And you know what? Not one raindrop fell!
Riding the school bus to the Washington side for the start of the 10k.
In June, Jason and I broke away to Astoria for some R & R. Then in October we returned for The Great Columbia Crossing with a group of friends. The Columbia Crossing is a 10k run that traverses the Astoria-Megler bridge over the 4.7 mile width of the Columbia River. Quite the memorable route for a road race!
Trying to stay warm before running the Columbia Crossing 10K!
Did you know that Astoria is the oldest American settlement west of the rockies? It’s where the Lewis and Clark Expedition landed in 1805 and they braved the winter elements at Fort Clatsop. Six years later, John Jacob Astor’s American Fur Company established a fort where Astoria now stands. Over the past 2 centuries, the area played a central role in the Pacific Northwest’s economic development through the fur, fishing, and timber industries.
Spending time at the Columbia River Maritime Museum really drove home the magnitude of Astoria’s history, especially in fisheries and canning. The hard-scrabble port town existence of early Astoria residents is awe-inspiring. That gritty, working-class spirit still thrives alongside its colorful history and vibrant renaissance.
That authenticity – Astoria doesn’t gloss over its essence in the name of tourism – really captivated me.
Besides the Maritime, there are several notable museums. We also visited the Oregon Film Museum in October. It’s a nod to all the movies (remember The Goonies?) that have been filmed in Astoria. Housed in the old Clatsop County Jail, it’s a hoot! We created and edited our own short-short film. If I could find the link (but darn, I can’t) our improvisation skills would blow you away!
Mindy, Jen, and Anna “on location” at the Oregon Film Museum.
Jason and I rode bikes along the riverwalk trail that extends 5+ miles along the Columbia. Such a carefree way to soak up the river views with the breeze blowing in my hair! Salty docks, warehouses, a few hotels, and brew pubs dot the land side of the path.
Pedaling out to Pier 39.
After our stop at the Maritime Museum, we cruised out to the Rogue Brewery at Pier 39, which is housed in the old Bumble Bee Tuna Cannery. More history: Bumble Bee Company formed in 1899 in Astoria with 7 salmon canners.
Much of the canning equipment is on display and the restrooms are precisely preserved from the early 1900‘s. You can just imagine the workers on their break – frigid fingers, aching backs, and enduring a rank fish smell. Thank goodness I was born in 1971 instead of 1871….
In October the gals grabbed a java at Coffee Girl, also at Pier 39. Truly one of the most delicious mochas I’ve ever sipped!
Divine and drinkable art from Coffee Girl.
Besides the riverwalk trail, the Astoria Riverfront Trolley is a scenic and informative way to explore Astoria’s historical waterfront. The trolley turned 100 years old this year! We kicked back for a leisurely ride and listened to the operator share historic sound bites of interest.
The Astoria Riverfront Trolley, 100 years young.
Astoria’s monument to its roots is the Astoria Column, towering on top of Coxcomb Hill. Built in 1926, we hoofed up the column’s 131 spiral steps to the top for 360 degree views. Saddle Mountain rises up beyond a blanket of dense foilage, Young’s Bay glimmers, and the Columbia River mingles into the Pacific Ocean. Spectacular!
The Astoria Column in all its glory.
More things to love about Astoria: we enjoyed the farmers market in the summer and our fall trip coincided with the 2nd Saturday Art Walk. I wasn’t expecting much but it was hip, a little edgy, and really fun. There were art displays of photography, jewelry, abstract oil paintings, live music, and more at local businesses and galleries. Every place we visited boasted a yummy spread of appetizers and wine. Impressive!
Views from atop the Astoria Column.
Now, for my personal recommendations should you choose Astoria as a future weekend destination…
Accomodations:
For luxe lodging, you can’t go wrong with the Cannery Pier Hotel. There’s a reason why Sunset ranked it as a top 25 hotel in the west and New York Magazine featured it as well. It’s perched over the river on log pilings, so the water views are amazing.
Water views always get me to my zen place and the cargo ships and fishing boats floating by 
were mesmerizing. You even get a view from the soaking tub! Other perks at the Cannery Pier: wine reception every evening, chaffeured rides in vintage cars to dinner, bikes to ride, and a lovely spa. Ahh, just writing about it makes me happy.
Riding in style to dinner from the Cannery Pier.
For budget lodging, the Norblad Hotel gets my endorsement. Smack downtown, its location is unbeatable. The south wing and lobby were still under renovation when we stayed there, but the owner was friendly and helpful. Situated on the second floor, there are some peek-a-boo river views from immaculately clean rooms. You do have to be able to deal with hallway bathrooms, but for only $65/night, it’s not too difficult.
Beer:
Beer tasting at the Wet Dog + Astoria Brewing Company.
I’m not much of a beer drinker now that I have to avoid gluten, but I’m usually in the company of beer drinkers, and we seek out brew pubs! Astoria is definitely making a name for itself in the beer world.
Jared and Jason haven’t met too many beers they don’t like.
I mentioned the Rogue Brewery earlier, located at Pier 39. There’s also Astoria Brewing Company at the Wet Dog Cafe on the river (they fling open their windows in the summer for open-air imbibing) and Fort George Brewery + Public House, located downtown. Fort George furnishes a “beer book” with tantalizingly technical descriptions of all their brews. It was my favorite for the chic industrial atmosphere and elevated pub fare. In June I savored a chanterelle mushroom and rabbit soup that was out of this world.
Fort George Brewery in downtown Astoria.
Food:
Okay, Astoria is crammed with truly unforgettable restaurants. Excellent service overall and great ambiance, too. I appreciated how every place wass knowledgeable and accommodating to food sensitivities; not all cities are. From seafood to burgers to breakfast, every meal we ate on both trips exceeded our expectations:
Breakfast at Blue Scorcher Bakery (gluten-free bread, too.)
Seafood-stuffed spaghetti squash at T. Paul’s Supper Club.
14 Street Coffee
Shop:
We didn’t do a ton of shopping because we were busy riding bikes in June and running a 10k in October – and eating our way through the town. But I snagged some cool finds at Vintage Hardware and Klassy Kloset. Vintage Hardware sells architectural salvage home furnishings on the ground floor of the (closed) Astor Hotel. And the classic Gimre’s Shoes offered lots of Uggs (the German exchange student in our group bought 4 pairs for family back home since they’re so much cheaper here) and Smartwool socks. Gimre’s has been in business since 1892!
The old Astor Hotel (Vintage Hardware is on the ground floor.) The Norblad Hotel is across the street.
All right, this list barely scratches the surface, but you get the idea. Maybe we’ll catch up with you in Astoria in 2014 – the kids aren’t too pleased we’ve been there twice without them, so we know a return trip is in store!
Another gorgeous sunset over the Columbia.
Speaking of 2014, where are your travels taking you this year? Or perhaps your travel dreams? Feel free share with other Experiential Passage readers!
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